Coyhaique: An Urban Intermission

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The weather looked like shit most everywhere. Piedra Parada seemed nice enough, but nice weather and no partners lost out to friends and poor weather in Coyhaique.  And Pablo had graciously offered me a place to stay, a true bonus. *** Pablo and Gaby are gone for the morning, but prior to departure, we have sipped […]

Three Strikes

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27th December 2016 –“Shit.” We are sitting in el Pizzeria Reconquista on Chaiten’s Avenida Diego Portales sipping beer, waiting on a pizza. We are just back from our explorations up Rio Alerces and after 10 kilometers of walking and hitchiking we are in need of sustenance. In this case, beer and food. “What’s up?” I ask, looking up from […]

Christmas Beach

Good thing I wasn't wearing approach shoes!

“I saw sunlight on some rocks over near the river” Josie says from somewhere close behind me. “Yeah…I’m gonna try to work down this sidehill and get over there” I say, gesturing forward with my machete. “Can’t wait to get to those flats…now there’s two things we haven’t seen much of recently: flats and sun.” […]

Rookie Moves

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“Well, that was stupid” Josie says. She is sitting on a yellow butt pad and has turned to look at her pack, a couple meters away. “What was?” I ask after a long pause. One of my boots is off and I am peeling a small leech from behind my ankle. “Slippery little bugger” I […]

Similar, but Oh-So Different

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¿Como fue? a familiar face in the food truck asks as we sit down on white, plastic stools. We had just boarded the food truck-bus to get some breakfast. The converted green bus parked on the side of Liberatador Bernardo O’Higgins had quickly become a go to for good food, especially breakfast, and today was […]