The Lessons: Part Tres

The Lessons – 2014 – Become more well rounded.  Mountains in this range demand a solid command of a wide array of mountain skills.  The past two trips to this arena have led me to believe that I can get away with being a strong alpine rock climber and a not so strong mixed or […]

The Waiting Days

30 January 2014–There are no rest days in El Chalten. There are only waiting days. Sooner or later the weather improves and forecasts look good. The climbers come down from their boulders and sport climbs, shake themselves out of drunken stuppors and lace up boots and approach shoes. They head off to the mountains. Rumors […]

On the Nature of Summits and Partners

“Well, here we go” I announce, screwing the Doite isobutane canister onto the Jetboil. “Let’s see if this works” I continue as Rainbow and Anne glance up to watch me turn the valve on the stove. The silence says it all. “Fuck.” Rainbow, Anne and I are setting up camp at the toe of the […]

It Begins Again…

2 December 2013 — Patagonia called me back in 2015 before I even boarded my flight there for 2014. The message came by Facebook. It was a Monday morning and I was lying next to Amy in our port-a-build at NOLS New Zealand. In my usual fashion I lay awake and watched the sunlight slowly […]

Plan B…?

17 January 2014–In his guidebook Patagonia Vertical Rolando Garibotti refers to the Amy-Vidailhet couloir as “ultra classic” and “mega-classic”. It was not on the top of my list of routes to climb this year, but flexibility is part of making plans in Patagonia. I had climbed Guillaumet last year with Matt via the Brenner-Moschioni. It […]