Coyhaique: An Urban Intermission

The weather looked like shit most everywhere. Piedra Parada seemed nice enough, but nice weather and no partners lost out to friends and poor weather in Coyhaique.  And Pablo had graciously offered me a place to stay, a true bonus. *** Pablo and Gaby are gone for the morning, but prior to departure, we have sipped […]

The Lessons: Part Vier (the viagra effect)

The expeditionary nature of this year’s excursion into the  Avellanos resulted in some pretty specific lessons, some that should probably have been obvious. – Use a ration planning model.  Do not succumb to good enough or eyeballing.  Duh, that should have been obvious.  Matt did some math before we went to the Supermercado, but without […]

Escudo

“Es una mierda” Gabo says with a thinly veiled cough while trying to suppress a smile.  Next to him Cristina is telling Rodrigo that there are so many better places to take me than Escudo.  I just sit and take it all in.  Earlier Greta had told me about how Rodrigo had gone up there […]

Bahia Murta

“Bahia Murta is the next El Chalten” Matt has said more than once.  Having never seen Chalten prior to its transformation into “The Trekking Capital of Argentina” I imagine that, at some point, it was a lot like Bahia Murta is now.  In some ways, I think we both dream a bit of being at […]

Consolation Prizes

“Mind if I rack up and take the first lead” Matt asks. “Nope, go for it, I’ve probably climbed the most of anyone on this expedition.  It’s all yours.”  We are at the saddle between the South Avellano Tower and The Tooth, a pyramidal granite spire, and are emptying our large, cumbersome packs that are […]

The Reality Check

“Where do you want me Dave?” “Wherever you want.  It’s your lead.”  Dave’s tone is mildly exasperated and slightly frustrated.  He has just finished his block of leads and the last one in particular was a run out slab that wound its way upward for about one hundred and twenty feet of vertical gain for […]

The North Ridge

The group process yielded a desire to climb something.  After talking options for a half hour or forty-five minutes we reached the conclusion that moving over the saddle to the base of our objective was not the best choice for our one day weather “window.”  With our gear already at the saddle, making use of […]