The Lessons: Part Vier (the viagra effect)

The expeditionary nature of this year’s excursion into the  Avellanos resulted in some pretty specific lessons, some that should probably have been obvious. – Use a ration planning model.  Do not succumb to good enough or eyeballing.  Duh, that should have been obvious.  Matt did some math before we went to the Supermercado, but without […]

Bahia Murta

“Bahia Murta is the next El Chalten” Matt has said more than once.  Having never seen Chalten prior to its transformation into “The Trekking Capital of Argentina” I imagine that, at some point, it was a lot like Bahia Murta is now.  In some ways, I think we both dream a bit of being at […]

Consolation Prizes

“Mind if I rack up and take the first lead” Matt asks. “Nope, go for it, I’ve probably climbed the most of anyone on this expedition.  It’s all yours.”  We are at the saddle between the South Avellano Tower and The Tooth, a pyramidal granite spire, and are emptying our large, cumbersome packs that are […]

The Reality Check

“Where do you want me Dave?” “Wherever you want.  It’s your lead.”  Dave’s tone is mildly exasperated and slightly frustrated.  He has just finished his block of leads and the last one in particular was a run out slab that wound its way upward for about one hundred and twenty feet of vertical gain for […]

The North Ridge

The group process yielded a desire to climb something.  After talking options for a half hour or forty-five minutes we reached the conclusion that moving over the saddle to the base of our objective was not the best choice for our one day weather “window.”  With our gear already at the saddle, making use of […]

A Positive Outlook

“Bleleleleleep.”  The piece of relatively modern technology in my hand emits its message alert.  Earlier I had sent out some text messages via the satellite phone in search of weather reports.  “New SMS Text.  Read Now?” it asks.  Is this the one I have been waiting for, I wonder to myself. An hour before, Matt […]

Getting Out of Town

  “I’ll get the gate” I say as the red Nissan pickup truck slows to a stop in front of a sturdy, wooden gate.  I open the door and hop out.  The brisk Patagonian wind kicks the life back into me and is worlds different than the stagnant air of the truck cab and its […]