Consolation Prizes

“Mind if I rack up and take the first lead” Matt asks. “Nope, go for it, I’ve probably climbed the most of anyone on this expedition.  It’s all yours.”  We are at the saddle between the South Avellano Tower and The Tooth, a pyramidal granite spire, and are emptying our large, cumbersome packs that are […]

The Reality Check

“Where do you want me Dave?” “Wherever you want.  It’s your lead.”  Dave’s tone is mildly exasperated and slightly frustrated.  He has just finished his block of leads and the last one in particular was a run out slab that wound its way upward for about one hundred and twenty feet of vertical gain for […]

The North Ridge

The group process yielded a desire to climb something.  After talking options for a half hour or forty-five minutes we reached the conclusion that moving over the saddle to the base of our objective was not the best choice for our one day weather “window.”  With our gear already at the saddle, making use of […]

Plan B…?

17 January 2014–In his guidebook Patagonia Vertical Rolando Garibotti refers to the Amy-Vidailhet couloir as “ultra classic” and “mega-classic”. It was not on the top of my list of routes to climb this year, but flexibility is part of making plans in Patagonia. I had climbed Guillaumet last year with Matt via the Brenner-Moschioni. It […]