Dark to Dark to Dark

We woke in the dark then watched the sun come up. We watched the sun go down and come up again. All without sleeping. Then we watched it go down once more, still without sleeping. In between we climbed up, rapped down and walked out. *** It was to be a short spell of good […]

Facing Reality on Pilar Goretta

The reality is, once again, I am not good enough. Not strong enough, not smart enough, not tough enough, and even potentially, not dumb enough. Some things had changed in the two years since I last attempted to climb Fitz Roy via Pilar Goretta and it’s north side. I had more experience, more knowledge and […]

The Lessons: Part Tres

The Lessons – 2014 – Become more well rounded.  Mountains in this range demand a solid command of a wide array of mountain skills.  The past two trips to this arena have led me to believe that I can get away with being a strong alpine rock climber and a not so strong mixed or […]

The Waiting Days

30 January 2014–There are no rest days in El Chalten. There are only waiting days. Sooner or later the weather improves and forecasts look good. The climbers come down from their boulders and sport climbs, shake themselves out of drunken stuppors and lace up boots and approach shoes. They head off to the mountains. Rumors […]