On the Nature of Summits and Partners

“Well, here we go” I announce, screwing the Doite isobutane canister onto the Jetboil. “Let’s see if this works” I continue as Rainbow and Anne glance up to watch me turn the valve on the stove. The silence says it all. “Fuck.” Rainbow, Anne and I are setting up camp at the toe of the […]

It Begins Again…

2 December 2013 — Patagonia called me back in 2015 before I even boarded my flight there for 2014. The message came by Facebook. It was a Monday morning and I was lying next to Amy in our port-a-build at NOLS New Zealand. In my usual fashion I lay awake and watched the sunlight slowly […]

Plan B…?

17 January 2014–In his guidebook Patagonia Vertical Rolando Garibotti refers to the Amy-Vidailhet couloir as “ultra classic” and “mega-classic”. It was not on the top of my list of routes to climb this year, but flexibility is part of making plans in Patagonia. I had climbed Guillaumet last year with Matt via the Brenner-Moschioni. It […]

De l’S: Take Two

Bleep, bleep, beep, the satellite phone rings its electronic ring. “New SMS Message. Read Now?” it announces. “Howdy” Rainbow greets two Italian climbers as they descend the loose scree into Niponino’s sandy tent platforms. We chat a bit and exchange beta before they grab their cached gear and head further up the valley. I turn […]