Getting Out of Town

  “I’ll get the gate” I say as the red Nissan pickup truck slows to a stop in front of a sturdy, wooden gate.  I open the door and hop out.  The brisk Patagonian wind kicks the life back into me and is worlds different than the stagnant air of the truck cab and its […]

The Ice Cream Aisle

The shaggy haired blonde guy looked a bit out of place, no doubt just as I did. He was wandering around the Bigger grocery store with a stack of dulce de leche tubs. I pushed my sugary snack laden grocery cart away from the dulces and made my way toward Dave, Matt and Ting Ting […]

South by West and East

  The Mojave desert is an unconventional place to prepare for an expedition to a remote Patagonian peak.  Joshua Tree National Park however, is where three of the four expedition members ended up during mid December.  It is true that before gaining popularity as a testing ground in its own right, J-Tree was seen as […]

The Lessons: Part Tres

The Lessons – 2014 – Become more well rounded.  Mountains in this range demand a solid command of a wide array of mountain skills.  The past two trips to this arena have led me to believe that I can get away with being a strong alpine rock climber and a not so strong mixed or […]

The Waiting Days

30 January 2014–There are no rest days in El Chalten. There are only waiting days. Sooner or later the weather improves and forecasts look good. The climbers come down from their boulders and sport climbs, shake themselves out of drunken stuppors and lace up boots and approach shoes. They head off to the mountains. Rumors […]

On the Nature of Summits and Partners

“Well, here we go” I announce, screwing the Doite isobutane canister onto the Jetboil. “Let’s see if this works” I continue as Rainbow and Anne glance up to watch me turn the valve on the stove. The silence says it all. “Fuck.” Rainbow, Anne and I are setting up camp at the toe of the […]

Plan B…?

17 January 2014–In his guidebook Patagonia Vertical Rolando Garibotti refers to the Amy-Vidailhet couloir as “ultra classic” and “mega-classic”. It was not on the top of my list of routes to climb this year, but flexibility is part of making plans in Patagonia. I had climbed Guillaumet last year with Matt via the Brenner-Moschioni. It […]