On the Nature of Summits and Partners

“Well, here we go” I announce, screwing the Doite isobutane canister onto the Jetboil. “Let’s see if this works” I continue as Rainbow and Anne glance up to watch me turn the valve on the stove. The silence says it all. “Fuck.” Rainbow, Anne and I are setting up camp at the toe of the […]

Plan B…?

17 January 2014–In his guidebook Patagonia Vertical Rolando Garibotti refers to the Amy-Vidailhet couloir as “ultra classic” and “mega-classic”. It was not on the top of my list of routes to climb this year, but flexibility is part of making plans in Patagonia. I had climbed Guillaumet last year with Matt via the Brenner-Moschioni. It […]

De l’S: Take Two

Bleep, bleep, beep, the satellite phone rings its electronic ring. “New SMS Message. Read Now?” it announces. “Howdy” Rainbow greets two Italian climbers as they descend the loose scree into Niponino’s sandy tent platforms. We chat a bit and exchange beta before they grab their cached gear and head further up the valley. I turn […]

The Times They Have A’ Changed

“Hello Anna Haegel, this is Jared Spaulding” I say when she answers the phone. I detect a hint of uncertainty in her “hello?” “Hmm, I thought it might be you with the funky phone number. It seemed like it was from a long way away” she replied. “Are you busy?” I asked, getting straight to […]

Same Same, But Different

Anne pulls up the latest meteorogram as Rainbow and I peer over her shoulder. Rumour has it that this year is a year of manufactured windows. Rock routes are not dry and climbing more alpinesque routes allows for climbing in more varied conditions. “Yeah” he says, “there on Thursday, the pressure is a bit higher […]