Decision Time

To go or not to go, that is the question.  Is it even a question though?  Is it not preordained?  The fact that I sit here and write these sentences tells me it is not a question.  Maybe the real question is where to go, and more importantly, with whom. The planning begins again, though […]

The Lessons: Part Vier (the viagra effect)

The expeditionary nature of this year’s excursion into the  Avellanos resulted in some pretty specific lessons, some that should probably have been obvious. – Use a ration planning model.  Do not succumb to good enough or eyeballing.  Duh, that should have been obvious.  Matt did some math before we went to the Supermercado, but without […]

Bahia Murta

“Bahia Murta is the next El Chalten” Matt has said more than once.  Having never seen Chalten prior to its transformation into “The Trekking Capital of Argentina” I imagine that, at some point, it was a lot like Bahia Murta is now.  In some ways, I think we both dream a bit of being at […]

Consolation Prizes

“Mind if I rack up and take the first lead” Matt asks. “Nope, go for it, I’ve probably climbed the most of anyone on this expedition.  It’s all yours.”  We are at the saddle between the South Avellano Tower and The Tooth, a pyramidal granite spire, and are emptying our large, cumbersome packs that are […]

The Reality Check

“Where do you want me Dave?” “Wherever you want.  It’s your lead.”  Dave’s tone is mildly exasperated and slightly frustrated.  He has just finished his block of leads and the last one in particular was a run out slab that wound its way upward for about one hundred and twenty feet of vertical gain for […]

Oh, Patagonia

“Oh, Patagonia.” It is not the first time that sigh has escaped my lips here in the Avellano region, but it is the first time today. Dave, Ting-ting, Matt and I are crowded under our blue and grey cook tent. It is relatively comfortable within this lightweight refuge, large awkward rocks, cramped sitting positions and […]