The Lessons: Part Vier (the viagra effect)

The expeditionary nature of this year’s excursion into the  Avellanos resulted in some pretty specific lessons, some that should probably have been obvious. – Use a ration planning model.  Do not succumb to good enough or eyeballing.  Duh, that should have been obvious.  Matt did some math before we went to the Supermercado, but without […]

Consolation Prizes

“Mind if I rack up and take the first lead” Matt asks. “Nope, go for it, I’ve probably climbed the most of anyone on this expedition.  It’s all yours.”  We are at the saddle between the South Avellano Tower and The Tooth, a pyramidal granite spire, and are emptying our large, cumbersome packs that are […]

The North Ridge

The group process yielded a desire to climb something.  After talking options for a half hour or forty-five minutes we reached the conclusion that moving over the saddle to the base of our objective was not the best choice for our one day weather “window.”  With our gear already at the saddle, making use of […]

A Positive Outlook

“Bleleleleleep.”  The piece of relatively modern technology in my hand emits its message alert.  Earlier I had sent out some text messages via the satellite phone in search of weather reports.  “New SMS Text.  Read Now?” it asks.  Is this the one I have been waiting for, I wonder to myself. An hour before, Matt […]

The Group Process

“Where are you going with those” Dave asks, a bit perplexed as I grab the three mostly full duffle bags of food from the cook tent. “I am a visual person”, I respond. “I need to spread the food out to do a proper inventory.” I cart the bags down the thirty degree slope to […]