The Lessons: Part Fem*

Expeditions have a way of teaching much if you know where to look.  Some of this year’s lessons are specific to the Valdivian or Siempreverde rainforests, others more general.  Some are obvious, others, not so much.  With those unobvious ones, one has to to search a little harder, dig a little deeper.  I got some of each […]

…and A Descent

As per usual, my headlamp is fading fast, but its pale glow can still illuminate the tiny beech tree in front of me. No larger than the biggest part of my forearm, it creaks and flexes under Josie’s weight.  Behind it the soft, fern covered, moss smothered ground rises and falls with each creak and […]

The Present

There is nothing else. There is only now. There is only here. Time and distance are meaningless. Five miles or five minutes, it is no different. I’ve lost concern for all but two. Everything else is irrelevant, nonexistent, inconsequential. There is only one direction; water flows downhill and I will follow. The world consists of the […]

Washing Machines

20 January 2017 — “Well we know that we have the wring cycle for when you are done” I yell out to Josie as she ventures into the swift, deep river. Despite her proximity to the shore, she is already thigh deep and leaning hard into her pole. The wring cycle was a technique we […]

Three Strikes

27th December 2016 –“Shit.” We are sitting in el Pizzeria Reconquista on Chaiten’s Avenida Diego Portales sipping beer, waiting on a pizza. We are just back from our explorations up Rio Alerces and after 10 kilometers of walking and hitchiking we are in need of sustenance. In this case, beer and food. “What’s up?” I ask, looking up from […]

Christmas Beach

“I saw sunlight on some rocks over near the river” Josie says from somewhere close behind me. “Yeah…I’m gonna try to work down this sidehill and get over there” I say, gesturing forward with my machete. “Can’t wait to get to those flats…now there’s two things we haven’t seen much of recently: flats and sun.” […]